I've been Etsyfied! I had my first sale last week through my Etsy shop, Ellie Thouret Designs and I've been very excited about it. It's even kicked me into gear to take some decent photos of my designs to upload.
Here's a selection, let me know what you think!
I am a really big fan of websites like Etsy that encourage independent designers to share their work. I have a raft of designs to make up in the next few weeks and I hope I'll be blogging about more sales in future!
Sunday, 28 March 2010
Sunday, 7 March 2010
Shh! It's a secret (scarf)
Secrets are great fun, aren't they? And I've discovered that they're even more fun when you get a gift at the end! I'm talking about secret swaps of course, as I've just participated in the first round of the great 2010 Ravelry secret (and not-so-secret) scarf swap.
The basic premise is that you join the group on Ravelry, send details of your likes/dislikes (colours, styles etc.) and the moderator gives you a partner. From that point on, you know who you are knitting for, but not who is knitting for you.
Participating in this swap was an interesting exercise in choosing a style and colours for someone that I didn't know at all. All I had to go on was basic information, so it really encouraged me to be creative. I looked at a load of patterns before I found one that I thought my scarfee would like, as well as considering the right level of difficulty - after all, I've only been knitting seriously for 3 months.
Once I had settled on my pattern - the gorgeous Flame Chevron Scarf - I had so much fun picking out the yarn. I decided to go with the yarn that the pattern calls for, as I wanted the FO to resemble the photo as closely as possible, but choosing the colours was an adventure! My partner said that she liked bright colours, nothing boring, so I went for a mix of purples, blues and greens. The colours that Araucania Ranco Multy comes in are amazing and the yarn is lovely. I highly recommend it, especially as it is very affordable.
Then came the knitting, which was challenging enough to teach me new skills, but easy to memorise. I enjoyed it although it became a little repetive towards the end. I was worried that the scarf would be too short, but I needn't have been because after blocking it really grew and showed off the beautiful lace texture.
I packaged the scarf up with some Cadbury's chocolate and sent it off to my partner.
Then I went away for work for a week, and when I got home, this was waiting for me!
The second round kicks off on March 12 with the theme 'A Sense of Whimsy'. I have a good idea of what to make but am waiting until I get my partner before I cast on in case they hate the colour I've chosen!
Sunday, 14 February 2010
Knitty gritty
I love knitting! I feel like a total crochet traitor admitting that, but right now I love knitting more than crochet. It came along with its neat little stitches and lacy texture and stole my heart. I'm on a knitting kick, which means my crochet designing and making is suffering a little - oops!
Here's a selection of my recent knitFOs:
Here's a selection of my recent knitFOs:
And of course one for Mr NTLP!
Next stop...lace knitting!
Saturday, 19 December 2009
Lacy Spring Mitts Pattern
I wanted to design some ladylike, lacy gloves that would still be warm for springtime weather. Since it's currently snowing here, it's unlikely that I'll be wearing these anytime soon but here's the pattern anyway!
Lacy Spring Mitts
3mm hook
Fingering/4ply yarn.
I used a 3mm hook and a cashmere/wool mix yarn (ColourMart 2/15NM in Natural). It's lovely and warm but very soft.
Note: this pattern uses US terminology.
Pattern
Cuff:
ch9
Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc across - 8 sc
Row 2-37: ch1, sc in blo of each sc across - 8 sc
Do not fasten off
Turn cuff so that short ends are together. Sl st up row ends to join sides of cuff together. Turn right side out.
Do not fasten off.
Mitten:
Row 1: Working in ends of rows, ch1, sc around, sl st in first st to join - 37 sc
Row 2: ch1 (counts as first sc throughout), *sk next 2 sc, 5 dc in next sc (shell made), sk next 2 sc*, rep from *to* around, sl st in first st to join - 8 shells
Row 3-17: ch1, *sk next 2 sts, shell in next st (third dc of shell in previous row), sk 2 sts, sc in sc*, rep from * to * around, sl st in first st to join - 8 shells
Row 18: ch1, sk next 2 sts, shell in next st (third dc of shell in previous row), sk 2 sts, sc in sc, sk next 2 sts, shell in next st, sk next 2 sts, sc in sc, ch6, sk next 8 sts, 5 dc in centre of next shell, *sk next 2 sts, sc in sc, sk next 2 sts, shell in next st* rep from * to * around ending with shell, sl st in first st to join - 7 shells
Row 19: ch1, sk next 2 sts, shell in next st (third dc of shell in previous row), sk 2 sts, sc in sc, sk next 2 sts, shell in next st, sk next 2 sts, sc in sc, sk next 2 ch, shell in next ch, sk next 2 ch, sc in next ch, sk next 2 sts, *shell in next st, sk next 2 sts, sc in sc, sk next 2 sts*, rep from * to * around, sl st in first st to join - 8 shells
Row 20-24: ch1, *sk next 2 sts, shell in next st (third dc of shell in previous row), sk 2 sts, sc in sc*, rep from * to * around, sl st in first st to join - 8 shells
Row 25-26: ch1, sc around, sl st in first st to join - 45 sc
Fasten off.
To finish, join yarn in any st at bottom of mitten.
ch1, sc evenly around, sl st in first st to join.
Fasten off.
Weave in ends and block to desired measurements.
Lacy Spring Mitts
3mm hook
Fingering/4ply yarn.
I used a 3mm hook and a cashmere/wool mix yarn (ColourMart 2/15NM in Natural). It's lovely and warm but very soft.
Note: this pattern uses US terminology.
Pattern
Cuff:
ch9
Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc across - 8 sc
Row 2-37: ch1, sc in blo of each sc across - 8 sc
Do not fasten off
Turn cuff so that short ends are together. Sl st up row ends to join sides of cuff together. Turn right side out.
Do not fasten off.
Mitten:
Row 1: Working in ends of rows, ch1, sc around, sl st in first st to join - 37 sc
Row 2: ch1 (counts as first sc throughout), *sk next 2 sc, 5 dc in next sc (shell made), sk next 2 sc*, rep from *to* around, sl st in first st to join - 8 shells
Row 3-17: ch1, *sk next 2 sts, shell in next st (third dc of shell in previous row), sk 2 sts, sc in sc*, rep from * to * around, sl st in first st to join - 8 shells
Row 18: ch1, sk next 2 sts, shell in next st (third dc of shell in previous row), sk 2 sts, sc in sc, sk next 2 sts, shell in next st, sk next 2 sts, sc in sc, ch6, sk next 8 sts, 5 dc in centre of next shell, *sk next 2 sts, sc in sc, sk next 2 sts, shell in next st* rep from * to * around ending with shell, sl st in first st to join - 7 shells
Row 19: ch1, sk next 2 sts, shell in next st (third dc of shell in previous row), sk 2 sts, sc in sc, sk next 2 sts, shell in next st, sk next 2 sts, sc in sc, sk next 2 ch, shell in next ch, sk next 2 ch, sc in next ch, sk next 2 sts, *shell in next st, sk next 2 sts, sc in sc, sk next 2 sts*, rep from * to * around, sl st in first st to join - 8 shells
Row 20-24: ch1, *sk next 2 sts, shell in next st (third dc of shell in previous row), sk 2 sts, sc in sc*, rep from * to * around, sl st in first st to join - 8 shells
Row 25-26: ch1, sc around, sl st in first st to join - 45 sc
Fasten off.
To finish, join yarn in any st at bottom of mitten.
ch1, sc evenly around, sl st in first st to join.
Fasten off.
Weave in ends and block to desired measurements.
Sunday, 13 December 2009
My pledge
I've discovered that Manchester offers some of the most amazing vintage clothing shops I've ever seen. I know, this revelation has come a little late since I've lived here almost three years now, but better late than never I say! Manchester's Northern Quarter has a wealth of vintage delights but my favourites are Oxfam Originals, Rags to Bitches (which also offers dressmaking classes), Pop and Best Vintage.
We've had a vintage shopping bonanza recently, first with some visiting friends when I bought an orange knitted hat for £4 and 50s sewing patterns, and Mr NLTP got a fab houndstooth peacoat for £30 - and then with my parents this weekend where I tried and failed to buy 1940s tweed pencil skirts but ended up with a 40s-style wool jacket.
I have a strong theory that vintage clothes, particularly from the 40s, are much more flattering to my hourglass figure than modern clothes. Also, let's face it - they're just cooler. So I've decided to make myself a pledge: for the next six months, I will buy clothes only from vintage clothing shops or I will sew them myself (with the exceptions of basics e.g. tshirts and underwear!). I even shook on it with Mr NLTP, so you know I'm serious.
Let's see how I get on - I'll post pictures as I go!
We've had a vintage shopping bonanza recently, first with some visiting friends when I bought an orange knitted hat for £4 and 50s sewing patterns, and Mr NLTP got a fab houndstooth peacoat for £30 - and then with my parents this weekend where I tried and failed to buy 1940s tweed pencil skirts but ended up with a 40s-style wool jacket.
I have a strong theory that vintage clothes, particularly from the 40s, are much more flattering to my hourglass figure than modern clothes. Also, let's face it - they're just cooler. So I've decided to make myself a pledge: for the next six months, I will buy clothes only from vintage clothing shops or I will sew them myself (with the exceptions of basics e.g. tshirts and underwear!). I even shook on it with Mr NLTP, so you know I'm serious.
Let's see how I get on - I'll post pictures as I go!
Friday, 4 December 2009
Alice Mitts Pattern
Since making these up a couple of weeks ago, I've been working on the pattern and having it tested. It might not be quite there but the pattern is below, let me know if you find any errors!
Alice-Inspired Mitts
4mm (G) hook
Worsted-weight yarn
I used a 4mm hook and the New Moon colourway yarn from Bristol County Dyeworks. It's a great, soft worsted yarn. My hands are slim but I've received some comments that the mitts are coming out too big. If this is the case, I'd recommend going down to a 3.5mm hook.
Note: this pattern uses US terminology.
Gauge
5 hdc per inch
3 rows per inch
Pattern
ch32, join with sl st in 1st ch, ensuring that chain is not twisted.
row 1: ch3 (counts as first dc), dc around, join with sl st in first st – 32 sts
row 2-4: ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in next 3 sts, fpdc in next 4 sts, *dc in next 4 sts, fpdc in next 4 sts*, rep from * to * around, ending with fpdc in last 4 sts. Join with sl st in first st. - 32 sts – 2 pattern repeats
row 5: ch3 (counts as first dc), dc2tog over next 2 sts, dc in next st *fpdc in next 4 sts, dc in next 4 sts, fpdc in next 4 sts, dc in next st, dc2tog over next 2 sts*, rep from * to * around, ending with fpdc in next 4 sts. Join with sl st in first st. - 30 sts – 2 pattern repeats
row 6: ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in next 2 sts, *fpdc in next 4 sts, dc in next st, dc2tog in next 2 sts, dc in next st, fpdc in next 4 sts, dc in next 3 sts*, rep from * to * around, ending with fpdc in last 4 sts. Join with sl st in first st. - 28 sts, 2 pattern repeats
row 7: ch3 (counts as first dc), dc 2tog over next 2 sts, fpdc in next 4 sts, *dc in next 3 sts, fpdc in next 4 sts, dc2tog over next 2 sts, fpdc in next 4 sts*, rep from * to * around, ending with fpdc in last 4 sts. Join with sl st in first st. - 26 sts, 2 pattern repeats
row 8: ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in next dc fpdc in next 4 sts, *dc in next st, dc2tog over next 2 sts, fpdc in next 4 sts, dc in next 2 sts, fpdc in next 4 sts*, rep from * to * around, ending with fpdc in next 4 sts. Join with sl st in first st. - 24 sts, 2 pattern repeats
row 9: ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in next st, *fpdc in next 4 sts, dc in next 2 sts*, rep from * to * around, ending with fpdc in next 4 sts. Join with sl st in first st. - 24 sts, 4 pattern repeats
row 10: ch2 (counts as first hdc), hdc around, join with sl st in first st. - 24 sts
row 11: ch2 (counts as first hdc), *hdc in next 4 sts, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 5 sts, 2hdc in next st*, rep from * to * around, hdc in last 3 sts. Join with sl st in first st. - 28 sts, 2 pattern repeats
row 12: ch2 (counts as first hdc), hdc around, join with sl st in first st. - 28 sts
row 13: ch2 (counts as first hdc) *hdc in next 5 st, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 3 sts, 2 hdc in next st*, rep from * to *, ending with hdc in 5 sts, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in last st. Join with sl st in first st. - 33 sts, 2 pattern repeats
row 14-16: ch2 (counts as first hdc), hdc around, join with sl st in first st. - 33 sts
row 17: ch2 (counts as first hdc), *hdc in next 4 sts, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 5 sts, 2hdc in next st*, rep from * to * around, ending with hdc in last 5 sts. Join with sl st in first st. - 38 sts, 2 pattern repeats
row 18-20: ch2 (counts as first hdc), hdc around, join with sl st in first st. - 38 sts
row 21: ch2 (counts as first hdc) *hdc in next 7 st, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 3 sts, 2 hdc in next st*, rep from * to *, ending with hdc in 5 sts. Join with sl st in first st. - 43 sts, 2 pattern repeats
row 22: ch2 (counts as first hdc), hdc in next 20 sts, ch5, sk next 8 sts, hdc around, join with sl st in first st. 40 sts including ch5, 43 sts including skipped 8 sts.
row 23: ch2 (counts as first hdc), hdc in next 20 sts, hdc in each of ch5, hdc around, join with sl st in first st. 40 sts
rows 24-26: ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in next 3 sts, fpdc in next 4 sts, *dc in next 4 sts, fpdc in next 4 sts*, rep from * to * around, ending with fpdc in last 4 sts. Join with sl st in first st. - 40 sts – 4 pattern repeats
row 27: ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in next 3 sts, fpdc in next 4 sts, *dc in next st, dc2tog over next 2 sts, dc in next st, fpdc in next 4 sts, dc in next 4 dc, fpdc in next 4 sts*, rep from * to around to ending with fpdc in last 4 sts. Join with sl st in first st. - 38 sts – 2 pattern repeats
row 28: ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in next st, dc2tog in next 2 sts, fpdc in next 4 sts, *dc in next 3 sts, fpdc in next 4 sts, dc in next st, dc2tog over next 2 sts, dc in next st, fpdc in next 4 sts*, rep from * to around to ending with fpdc in last 4 sts. Join with sl st in first st. - 35 sts – 2 pattern repeats
Fasten off and weave in ends. Block to desired measurements.
Copyright 2009 Ellie Thouret
For personal use only.
Alice-Inspired Mitts
4mm (G) hook
Worsted-weight yarn
I used a 4mm hook and the New Moon colourway yarn from Bristol County Dyeworks. It's a great, soft worsted yarn. My hands are slim but I've received some comments that the mitts are coming out too big. If this is the case, I'd recommend going down to a 3.5mm hook.
Note: this pattern uses US terminology.
Gauge
5 hdc per inch
3 rows per inch
Pattern
ch32, join with sl st in 1st ch, ensuring that chain is not twisted.
row 1: ch3 (counts as first dc), dc around, join with sl st in first st – 32 sts
row 2-4: ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in next 3 sts, fpdc in next 4 sts, *dc in next 4 sts, fpdc in next 4 sts*, rep from * to * around, ending with fpdc in last 4 sts. Join with sl st in first st. - 32 sts – 2 pattern repeats
row 5: ch3 (counts as first dc), dc2tog over next 2 sts, dc in next st *fpdc in next 4 sts, dc in next 4 sts, fpdc in next 4 sts, dc in next st, dc2tog over next 2 sts*, rep from * to * around, ending with fpdc in next 4 sts. Join with sl st in first st. - 30 sts – 2 pattern repeats
row 6: ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in next 2 sts, *fpdc in next 4 sts, dc in next st, dc2tog in next 2 sts, dc in next st, fpdc in next 4 sts, dc in next 3 sts*, rep from * to * around, ending with fpdc in last 4 sts. Join with sl st in first st. - 28 sts, 2 pattern repeats
row 7: ch3 (counts as first dc), dc 2tog over next 2 sts, fpdc in next 4 sts, *dc in next 3 sts, fpdc in next 4 sts, dc2tog over next 2 sts, fpdc in next 4 sts*, rep from * to * around, ending with fpdc in last 4 sts. Join with sl st in first st. - 26 sts, 2 pattern repeats
row 8: ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in next dc fpdc in next 4 sts, *dc in next st, dc2tog over next 2 sts, fpdc in next 4 sts, dc in next 2 sts, fpdc in next 4 sts*, rep from * to * around, ending with fpdc in next 4 sts. Join with sl st in first st. - 24 sts, 2 pattern repeats
row 9: ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in next st, *fpdc in next 4 sts, dc in next 2 sts*, rep from * to * around, ending with fpdc in next 4 sts. Join with sl st in first st. - 24 sts, 4 pattern repeats
row 10: ch2 (counts as first hdc), hdc around, join with sl st in first st. - 24 sts
row 11: ch2 (counts as first hdc), *hdc in next 4 sts, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 5 sts, 2hdc in next st*, rep from * to * around, hdc in last 3 sts. Join with sl st in first st. - 28 sts, 2 pattern repeats
row 12: ch2 (counts as first hdc), hdc around, join with sl st in first st. - 28 sts
row 13: ch2 (counts as first hdc) *hdc in next 5 st, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 3 sts, 2 hdc in next st*, rep from * to *, ending with hdc in 5 sts, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in last st. Join with sl st in first st. - 33 sts, 2 pattern repeats
row 14-16: ch2 (counts as first hdc), hdc around, join with sl st in first st. - 33 sts
row 17: ch2 (counts as first hdc), *hdc in next 4 sts, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 5 sts, 2hdc in next st*, rep from * to * around, ending with hdc in last 5 sts. Join with sl st in first st. - 38 sts, 2 pattern repeats
row 18-20: ch2 (counts as first hdc), hdc around, join with sl st in first st. - 38 sts
row 21: ch2 (counts as first hdc) *hdc in next 7 st, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 3 sts, 2 hdc in next st*, rep from * to *, ending with hdc in 5 sts. Join with sl st in first st. - 43 sts, 2 pattern repeats
row 22: ch2 (counts as first hdc), hdc in next 20 sts, ch5, sk next 8 sts, hdc around, join with sl st in first st. 40 sts including ch5, 43 sts including skipped 8 sts.
row 23: ch2 (counts as first hdc), hdc in next 20 sts, hdc in each of ch5, hdc around, join with sl st in first st. 40 sts
rows 24-26: ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in next 3 sts, fpdc in next 4 sts, *dc in next 4 sts, fpdc in next 4 sts*, rep from * to * around, ending with fpdc in last 4 sts. Join with sl st in first st. - 40 sts – 4 pattern repeats
row 27: ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in next 3 sts, fpdc in next 4 sts, *dc in next st, dc2tog over next 2 sts, dc in next st, fpdc in next 4 sts, dc in next 4 dc, fpdc in next 4 sts*, rep from * to around to ending with fpdc in last 4 sts. Join with sl st in first st. - 38 sts – 2 pattern repeats
row 28: ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in next st, dc2tog in next 2 sts, fpdc in next 4 sts, *dc in next 3 sts, fpdc in next 4 sts, dc in next st, dc2tog over next 2 sts, dc in next st, fpdc in next 4 sts*, rep from * to around to ending with fpdc in last 4 sts. Join with sl st in first st. - 35 sts – 2 pattern repeats
Fasten off and weave in ends. Block to desired measurements.
Copyright 2009 Ellie Thouret
For personal use only.
Saturday, 21 November 2009
New Moon - Alice Mitts
I saw New Moon last night after what has felt like a lifetime of waiting! It was a great film and I can't wait to see it again. As with Twilight, Alice's wardrobe was completely inspiring (except for a coat malfunction during the trip to Italy). There are a few patterns on Ravely already for her pretty fingerless mittens but all are knitting, so I made it my mission today to figure out a look-a-like crochet version.
Here are some pics - the pattern will be available as soon as I've had it tested for any snafus!
Ellie's Alice-Inspired Mitts
Here are some pics - the pattern will be available as soon as I've had it tested for any snafus!
Ellie's Alice-Inspired Mitts
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